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Seafood Risotto
Risotto is a dish on which Sarah and I disagree. For her, the pinnacle of rice is a long-grain variety like basmati, cooked dry and fluffy, firm but done, with enough nutty flavor to be delicious...
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Chicken Noodle Soup
I’m sick. I’d wager that you’re sick, too. Or that if you’re not, you’re getting there. If the sensationalist media is to be believed, the whole United States is in the midst of a pestilential deluge —...
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Leek Miso Stir-Fry
It’s been a while, it seems to me, since I’ve offered you all a quick and easy weeknight meal. I recall that there was a period in there where I did a pasta with greens and a fried rice, and told you,...
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Saag Paneer
Real saag! exclaimed my friend Allia, smiling as I put the dish on the table. Most restaurants say saag paneer, but what they mean is palak. Spinach. Saag is always mustard greens. Allia would know....
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Honey Wheat Boule
Fresh baked bread: hot, straight from the oven, crust crackling as it cools on its wire rack in the chill air of winter. You wait, mouth watering. And then — like some Maenad with a sacrificial goat —...
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Meatballs Marinara, Italian Style
Culinary comrades, fellow food fanatics who follow this blog, if you have not seen Big Night — Stanley Tucci and Tony Shalhoub’s 1996 ode to a failing Italian restaurant — you simply must. It is...
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Quiche Lorraine
There’s something that’s brilliantly, deceptively pedestrian about a quiche Lorraine. We tend to think of it as elegant, perhaps because its name is French, or perhaps because Julia Child famously made...
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Meat Pies with Broccoli Rabe
I’d like to begin by assuring you all that this post in no way promotes cannibalism. Nor cattibalism, neither. It seems as though, as with my quiche lorraine, a great deal rides on a name. And while an...
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Charoset, Two Ways
Ask me why Monday night is different from all other nights. Come on — ask me. I got four reasons for you right here. Bitter vegetables, double dipping, hardtack, and — why I oughta! But seriously,...
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Carrot and Coriander Soup, Not Once But Twice
When I lived briefly in England, more than ten years ago now, I used to love a wonderful Carrot & Coriander soup. It was bright and light and warm, like spring and fall in the same bowl. And it...
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Steamed Artichokes with Garlic-Tarragon Mayonnaise
When I was a child, steamed artichokes were my very favorite vegetable. Bitter and creamy, almost meaty at their heart, you could give childhood me an artichoke and a little puddle of butter, stand...
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Homemade Hamburger Buns
Grilling time is here again, and I’ve been thinking a lot about something. I don’t know about you all, but when I’m getting ready to cook burgers outside, especially for friends, I put a lot of thought...
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Zucchini Cakes, For One
I’m all alone this weekend. Sarah has gone a’visiting, and left me here to make my own fun. I don’t actually much enjoy cooking for one, and usually, when this happens, my food situation quickly...
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Hardtack; or, Ship’s Biscuit
At this point, dear readers, you must surely already be aware of my deep and abiding love of Star Trek. But what you probably don’t know about me is that Star Trek is hardly the only shipborne drama...
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Fall Workshop: Pickling Without Pasteur
People in Philadelphia! People who might have occasion to visit Philadelphia! You should all come out to this: Saturday, September 28th, from 10 am to noon, I’ll be teaching a workshop on...
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Goat Moussaka
In which I mostly make it up as I go I was a great reader as a child. (Also, as one might expect, a maker of mudpies. But principally a reader.) Most of my introductions to the world came through...
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Mak Kimchi
Kimchi is extraordinary and complicated and vast, and it would be no less than hubris to imagine that I could do justice to so rich a tradition in one post, or in a whole blog’s worth of posts. When I...
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Fermented Red Hot Pepper Sauce
I have to admit: I have an ulterior motive in making this particular post at this particular moment. Red hot pepper sauce is yet another pickle — one last ferment in what, one month ago, I called a...
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The Single Greatest Virtue of the Toaster Oven
Nobody ever asks me about the merits of toaster ovens relative to the pop-up variety. But it turns out I have an opinion on the matter. There is one key application that makes the toaster oven...
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Caramelized Pork Bits With Broken Rice
A thing called caramelized pork bits may, at first blush, seem a bit off the beaten path. But it makes perfect sense if you understand how it came about. It used to be, occasionally, that I would pop...
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